Is bhuna khichuri overrated? Letka fans think so!

As the torrential rain drenches the city, the debate over the best way to enjoy khichuri has resurfaced with renewed enthusiasm in Dhaka’s culinary scene. Should khichuri, the beloved rice and lentil dish, be enjoyed as letka or bhuna? To understand the pulse of Dhaka’s khichuri aficionados, we spoke to a few dedicated enthusiasts who shared their insights and experiences.
Shanchay Islam, a local restaurateur, claims, “Bhuna khichuri is the real khichuri; everything else is just a variation!” And if that doesn’t stir the pot, he doubled down with, “Its rich, dynamic texture, and bursts of flavour make letka khichuri look like the bland cousin who only shows up for free food!” Now that’s sure to spark some fiery debates! Sanchay’s words are much like the flavours of bhuna khichuri itself — intense and unapologetically bold!
Bhuna khichuri certainly carries the banner of sophistication within the khichuri family. This dish takes the classic one-pot method of boiling rice and lentils and elevates it with a more intricate preparation. Ingredients are lovingly fried and sautéed in ghee, accompanied by an aromatic symphony of whole spices. And this extra effort results in layers of deep, smoky flavours that give bhuna khichuri its signature charm. Each grain of rice and dal stands proud, bursting with intense flavour.
Mezbah Smaron, a journalist and fervent admirer of this “aromatic symphony,” gushes, “Bhuna khichuri is the authentic version of khichuri for me. The gritty texture and layers of spices create an adventure for the palate that I can’t resist. Pair it with beef and achar, and you’ll be kneeling in appreciation!”
However, detractors argue that this “rich cousin” of the traditional khichuri can sometimes be overwhelming. “It’s too heavy on the spices,” says Tahsin Tahira Biva, a self-proclaimed khichuri expert. “True khichuri should have a subtle elegance, a balance of simplicity and flavour,” she concludes, hinting that bhuna khichuri, with all its intensity, may stray too far from the dish’s humble roots.
Now, turning the spotlight to the simpler cousin, letka khichuri, the “grounded” one! The charm of this meal lies in its no-fuss simplicity. It’s a humble, soulful dish that doesn’t need special occasions or fancy presentations to shine. Nazmun Nahar, a former school teacher, puts it perfectly, stating, “Eating khichuri is a gentle, nuanced experience. It shouldn’t overwhelm you with bold flavours — that’s what tehari and biryani are for!”
But not everyone finds comfort in subtlety. Ismot Hasnine, a harsh critic of letka khichuri, dismisses this meal as being far too polite. “It’s too bland to be called khichuri!” he exclaims. “Where’s the spice? Where’s the kick? Am I sick?” His playful jabs at letka khichuri reflect a common sentiment among spice enthusiasts who need their food to pack a punch.
“Letka is for when I need comfort. Bhuna khichuri is for when I want to celebrate. You can’t compare them — it’s like comparing a quiet evening at home to a night out on the town. Both have their place,” says Subah Tarannam, a khichuri enthusiast who never misses an opportunity to enjoy the dish. “Whether it’s the simplicity of letka or the richness of bhuna khichuri, each has its moment. I wouldn’t want to live without either!”
Food enthusiast Dr Mitul agrees, stating, “Both dishes share the same roots, but they’ve evolved to serve different purposes. Letka is about sustenance and simplicity, while bhuna khichuri is all about indulgence and celebration.”
In the end, perhaps the real winner is the one who knows when to enjoy each. So, the next time you’re deciding between the two, ask yourself: Are you in the mood for a cosy night in, or a flavour-packed feast? Either way, you can’t go wrong!